2022-06-19

Investing - The Basics of US Income Taxes

Investing - The Basics of US Income Taxes

(2023-09-14 - I have made a few revisions to, hopefully, make things clearer.)

I have written several posts on investing, trying to illuminate the need for preparing for retirement and some of the different investment devices and how they work. And over many years of investing and a few in retirement, one thing that has become more and more clear to me is that how you handle income tax is very important (and not simple). You need to understand the different tax advantaged accounts (IRA, Roth IRA, etc.) and ordinary accounts and the taxes on different types of income (earned income, interest, dividend, capital gains).

I am writing this, in large part, for myself - to get a coherent, organized model of the US federal income tax code. This complex code has been transformed into a set of massively confusing and near infinite number of forms that obfuscate the rules. Maybe I can untangle it a bit.

I hope it's useful - maybe just as a sleep aid. After finishing this post, I am wondering if it's better to just find a good book on the subject.

Also see Investing, Investing - More Fun with Investing, Investing - How to Choose a Mutual Fund, Investing - Things I Have Learned in Retirement, and Investing - Retirement Money Tips .

There are many details to federal income tax law. Below is the foundation of the tax system as it relates to investing. This is only the foundation - there are many rules about special income sources farming, real estate, small businesses, much more that I know nothing about. The specific numbers are just an example (filing as a single person, 2021). You will have to look up numbers specific to you.

This post looks at these topics.

  • Income
  • Interest
  • Unqualified ordinary dividends
  • Qualified dividends
  • Short term capital gains
  • Long term capital gains
  • Capital losses
  • IRA, 401K, ... required minimum distributions (RMDs)

It does not look at these topics but they are worth digging into after getting past the basics.

  • Taxes on social security income
  • Foreign taxes
  • State taxes
  • Deductions (reduce your taxable income)
  • Standard deduction (lower limit of itemizing, eliminates itemizing for many people)
  • Credits (reduces the amount of tax that you owe)
  • Refundable credits (reduces the amount of tax that you owe and if greater than what you owe gives you a refund)
  • Exemptions (removes the tax obligation from some income)
  • Income based Medicare penalty
  • Alternative minimum tax
  • Money from pensions and annuities (generally treated like IRAs)

Why is this important? Tax details dramatically affect your effective income and there are secondary effects such as

  • Social Security payments are taxed based on income.
  • Medicare rates are based on income.
  • COVID relief payments are based on income.
  • Tax rates are based on income.
  • Student loan forgiveness will likely be based on income.



My Terminology -

  • Income - short for taxable income - any money that you get that is not tax exempt. I am not saying that exempt income is not good - it's great - but I don't want to prefix every use of the word income with taxable or exempt. If it's exempt, I will add that qualifier.
  • Exempt income - any money that would have been income except that it is exempt from income taxes
  • Earned income - money that is earned from a job or business
  • Total income - really total taxable income - the sum of earned income, interest, dividends, capital gains, and money from a pre-tax retirement account (IRA, pension, annuity), but not exempt income
  • Income (tax) rate - the rate of taxation based on the IRS income table
  • Income tax - tax on total income, calculated on the IRS Qualified Dividend and Capital Gains Tax Worksheet (which refers you to the Tax Table or Tax Computation Worksheet for the income rate side of the calculation)
  • Capital gains short and long
  • Short term capital gains
  • Long term capital gains
  • Long term capital gains (tax) rate - the rate of taxation based on the IRS long term capital gains table
  • Qualified dividends are actually qualified ordinary dividends. These are mostly dividends from US corporations.
  • Ordinary dividends include qualified and unqualified ordinary dividends.
  • Unqualified ordinary dividends ordinary dividends minus qualified dividends
  • Interest from a bond fund is labeled as dividends, actually unqualified ordinary dividends.
  • I use IRA to refer to IRAs, 401Ks, 403Bs, and any other pre-tax retirement accounts.
  • I often use Roth to refer to Roth IRAs, Roth 401Ks, Roth 403Bs, and any other after-tax retirement accounts.

Please note - when I talk about IRAs, HSAs (health savings accounts) and other tax advantaged accounts, I am not giving all of the rules of these accounts. They are limited by age, holding time, source and size of contribution, income, all of which may change at the whim of our government.



Some general rules (some of these rules are subject to a minimum asset holding time).

  • IRA, 401K, ... contributions from earned income are tax exempt, withdrawals are taxed at the income rate.
  • Roth IRA, 401K, ... contributions are only from after tax earned income, withdrawals are tax exempt.
  • Long term capital gains are taxed at the long term capital gains rate.
  • Qualified dividends are taxed as long term capital gains.
  • Earned income is taxed at the income rate.
  • Interest is taxed at the income rate.
  • Unqualified ordinary dividends are taxed at the income rate.
  • Short term capital gains are taxed at the income rate.
  • Capital losses can offset capital gains, including future capital gains if there is currently nothing to offset.
  • Required minimum distributions (RMDs) force you to take yearly IRA withdrawals (and pay income tax on them) starting at a certain age (72 right now). RMD withdrawals may not be transferred to Roth IRAs.
  • Tax exempt money is not taxed and is not included in deductions or income calculation.
  • Contributions to an IRA are tax exempt, but you must pay income taxes when you withdraw.
  • Contributions to health savings accounts are tax exempt and there are no taxes if you withdraw for medical expenses or Medicare premiums (not supplemental insurance premiums).
  • There are tax exempt bonds issued by local and state governments (municipal bonds).
  • Bonds may be tax exempt to different agencies - city, state, federal.
  • There are bond funds that invest in tax exempt bonds.

 

Tax Rates

Tax rate on earned income, IRA distributions, pension/annuity payment, interest, unqualified ordinary dividends, short term capital gains

t=total income less deductions, qualified dividends, long term cap gains

t less                    marginal  total tax        total rate
long term capital gains   rate                       range
and qualified dividends                               low   high

<9,950                    10%       t*10%            10.0   10.0
<40,525                   12%       t*12%-199        10.0   11.5
<86,375                   22%       t*22%-4251.5     11.5   17.1
<164,925                  24%       t*24%-5979       17.1   20.4
<209,425                  32%       t*32%-19173      20.4   22.8
<523,600                  35%       t*35%-25455.75   22.8   30.1
>=523,600                 37%       t*37%-35927.75   30.1   37


(These formulas are as used by the IRS. They seem backwards to me, subtracting off the offset from the lower brackets instead of adding on to the lower brackets, but it does simplify the formula.)

Note that I have subtracted out qualified dividends and long term capital gains from total income. This assumes that you are calculating tax on these separately, as noted below.

Tax rate on long term capital gains, qualified dividends

t=total income less deductions

t          tax rate
<40,000     0%
<446,000   15%
>=446,000  20%


Note that long term capital gains rates are a function of total income. They are not marginal rates - cross a line with your total income and all of your long term capital gains get a tax bump.

But you also calculate the tax on your total income via the income rate table. If that is lower than the tax calculated with the combination of income rate / long term capital gains rate, then that is the tax that you owe. It seems to me that is unlikely, but I haven't investigated.

Bond yield vs stock yield

Bond yield vs stock yield for a tax advantaged asset

There is no tax for a Roth withdrawal, and for a regular IRA all withdrawals pay the income rate, so there is no tax difference for bond interest and stock dividends

Bond yield vs stock yield for a tax unadvantaged asset

Looking at the income total rate ranges, you can see that long term capital gains rates are lower than income rates if your total income is below 40,000 or above about 100,000. But between 40,000 and 100,000, not much different. So stock qualified dividends are preferable to bond interest. For me stock dividends saved 20% in taxes vs what I would have owed with bond interest. And with stock dividends, you can use the income rate if it is lower than the long term capital gains rate.

 

Where are your assets?

Where are your assets? This affects taxes on withdrawals. But you can't move assets between accounts pain free. And the pain may be worse than the advantage. Plan ahead.

In a tax unadvantaged account

  • A fund that trades growth stocks distributes big capital gains from trades, small dividends from profits.
  • A fund that trades dividend or value stocks distributes capital gains from trades, dividends from profits.
  • A fund that holds growth stocks (index fund) distributes small capital gains and small dividends, so value goes up and unrealized capital gains go up.
  • A fund that holds dividend or value stocks (index fund) distributes small capital gains and big dividends.
  • A fund that trades bonds distributes capital gains and unqualified ordinary dividends.
  • Bonds or funds that holds bonds (index fund) distributes unqualified ordinary dividends.

In an IRA

  • All distributions come to you as unqualified ordinary dividends.
  • Distributions can be moved to a Roth.

In a Roth

  • Distributions are not taxed.
  • Deposits can only come from earned income (you must have a job) or an IRA conversion.

Note that the dividends noted above, unless specified, may be qualified, if the asset is US and is held long enough, or unqualified. And capital gains may be short or long, depending on how long the asset has been held.

Same subject, a few details -

Mutual funds distribute capital gains on sold stocks every year (or quarter or month). And for tax unadvantaged accounts, you must pay taxes on this. Index funds and other funds with low turnover have low capital gains distributions, so low capital gains taxes while you are holding the funds. But the stock values keep going up (historically anyway) while the cost basis stay the same, so unrealized capital gain keeps going up. When it's time to sell the fund, big capital gains taxes.

You can transfer assets from an IRA to a Roth IRA. This requires that you pay income rate taxes on the IRA withdrawal. Then the asset is in a Roth IRA and no more tax is due on the asset or distributions from the asset. Best to pay income taxes when your income is low, or the tax rates are low, or when the asset value is low (during a stock market low).

States have different policies on state taxation of IRA withdrawals. In Kentucky, the first $31000 (not sure of the exact number) of an IRA withdrawal is exempt from state income tax. If you don't need this as income, it is handy to use it for a Roth transfer.

I prefer to maximize my Roth account in preference to my IRA because it can hold any asset without tax consequences. But you might have a special fund in a 401K that you don't want to drain, for example you might be counting on a stable value fund for the long term. 


Where to withdraw when you need money

If you have an IRA required minimum distribution, take that first. There is a big tax consequence if you don't take the RMDs and you can't get around it.

Take cash from a distribution in a tax unadvantaged account. The tax consequences were set when the distribution was done, so no more tax on the cash.

Withdraw assets from a tax unadvantaged account. The taxes will be on capital gains (the asset value minus the cost basis). That is likely much less than withdrawing from an IRA.

As noted above, states have different policies on state taxation of IRA withdrawals. In Kentucky, the first $31000 (still not sure of the exact number) of an IRA withdrawal is exempt from state income tax, so a significantly reduced tax rate for this money.



Where to put different types of assets

I would be happy to have everything in my Roth, but it hurts too much to quickly transfer from my IRA. And there is no way to move my tax unadvantaged assets in the the Roth because I have no earned income (job or business).

So, in a Roth, I put my investments with the best chance of big rewards. If I get lucky with an investment, being tax free is a nice bonus.

In my tax unadvantaged account, I like dividend index stock funds that produce qualified dividends. I will have to pay mostly long term capital gains tax on this income. Hopefully, the dividends will support the stock price. And there should never be a management issue that would push me into selling.

That leaves the safest investments in my IRA, CDs, bonds, 40/60 fund. Assuming these a necessary parts of your portfolio, the slow growth will cause less RMD problems than fast growth assets.

And I can move IRA assets to my Roth slowly, keeping my total income low. Until the RMDs start. It might be better to take some of the pain now.

 

Enough (This has taken over a week.)

Do you have any thoughts, especially on where to put your assets, where to withdraw money, and what type of assets are useful in retirement? I would love to hear them.

2022-06-12

iPhone 13 mini

iPhone 13 mini

After learning that iPhones don't have an always on lock screen, I had decided to stick with my Pixel 4a.

But the software is so buggy. On a recent four hour trip, Google Maps went into a loop where every couple of minutes it would tell me to stay on the highway that I was already on. That's not incorrect, but it is annoying. Restarting the trip, restarting the phone did not fix this. This has happened to me before on a trip in Utah- hours of these annoying announcements.

On the same trip to Utah - the camera put very old dates on photos that I had just taken. I thought they were being deleted, but I found them weeks later.

Before I gave up on it, months ago, GMail would freeze several times every day.

Various Android updates have caused the lock screen to not show up after taking the phone out of my belt case. It's working now but this bug has come and gone with the monthly releases.

Flaky connection with my AirPods - low volume, high volume, insufficient volume range, and unwanted disconnects but the Bluetooth menu thinks they are still connected.

And then there is Google's policy of obsoleting useful apps because they aren't keeping up with ever changing requirements and system interfaces.


Meanwhile, Apple has put out a very nice looking phone - iPhone 13 mini. Of course this is the end of the line for the mini - the tech news reports that there will be no iPhone 14 mini. So time to reconsider the 13 mini.

What I "know" is wrong (some of this may have changed since I last had an iPhone)

  • No always on lock screen
  • Face recognition sounds clunky compared to Google's fingerprint reader (located on the back)
  • The glass back is stupid, but I need a phone cover anyway to prevent accidental screen touches with the thin screen bezel
  • Limited user configuration on the home screen
  • Stuck with Apple's keyboard
  • Requires the use of iTunes software to put music on the phone ($130 to add a Windows VM to my Ubuntu system)

What looks good and will be interesting to try

  • Voice isolation (filters noise from phone calls)
  • MagSafe charging and magnetic phone hold
  • Smaller size
  • 5G (my Pixel 4a is 4G)
  • Apple navigation

So on with the trial. Day 1

Nice hardware. Nice cover (Apple, expensive, MagSafe). MagSafe looks neat - that's a wireless charging system that uses a ring of magnets to center the phone on the charging area and holds the phone in place.

Oh - the keyboard can be changed. I installed Gboard. But it looks just like the Apple keyboard. No separate number key row (unless you shift).

Face recognition works pretty well. But all it does is unlock - it doesn't bring up the home screen. So pick up the phone, slide the bar up to get the home screen. Not as convenient as the back located fingerprint reader. But if you just washed your hands and did not thoroughly dry them, the fingerprint reader doesn't work, so I'll call this a draw.

It took way too long to get iTunes to work with my virtual machine Windows. I didn't realize that I had to set up USB to pass through to the virtual machine. Once that was done, sync got all my MP3s and playlists transferred.

I installed a lot of apps. I like Gmail so I got it - I hope it doesn't crash like it does with Android.

I looked for a screen off app. This turns off the screen off without pressing a hardware button. I couldn't find anything.

When driving across country, I like to know what time zone I am in. All clock widgets should be able to display the current time zone. I don't know if this is hard to find in Android because I use my own clock app that does it. I can't find anything on the iPhone that does. One app looks like it might, for a $20 charge. But it's not clear.

As noted above - no always on lock screen. I use this often - set my phone down and then I can see the time and notifications by glancing at it. How could they leave this out when they chose the OLED screen?

Weather app, Stock market app look good and are included.

The alarm clock appears to not have ramp up alarm. I didn't see anything about automatic dismiss. And clock widgets don't display the next alarm. No problem - I will find a nice alarm clock app. Same situation as Android.

No solid color wallpaper except black. With Android I choose a dark greenish blue - more pleasant than black.

Day 2

I can't find any alarm clock app that approaches Talking Alarm Clock Beyond for Android - ramp up alarms, automatic dismiss options on the alarms, multiple alarms and countdowns, next alarm time is noted on the clock widget.

One app, with ramp up, noted after I set the alarm - you must leave this app in the foreground or you will not get the requested alarm sound. ???? I have to set the alarm and not touch the phone until it goes off?

Of course iOS has nothing like the Nova home screen for Android - that was expected.

Contacts - there is no grouping, just one long list. That's true of Android too, except when I use True Phone I get all my contact groups - Favorites, Lexington, Dances, Family, Places, etc. I tried adding some contacts to favorites but phone, text, and email for each person were separate, so for four people, I had 12 favorites. And I couldn't make their address a favorite. Address is why I have myself on my favorites list - easy setup for navigating home.

So it comes down to this (each attribute is only counted for one phone) -

iPhone 13 mini

  • + excellent size
  • + voice isolation - great idea, I never put in the sim card so I didn't try it
  • + MagSafe - great idea, I didn't get far along enough to try it.
  • - terrible clock widgets
  • - terrible alarm clocks
  • - no screen off app
  • - no always on lock screen
  • - poor keyboard - no independent number row, constant shifting for important special characters \,%,$,@

Pixel 4a

  • - buggy software - Google Maps, Gmail, AirPod connection, camera
  • - no visual voice mail (unless you use Google Phone)
  • - constantly changing things that obsolete good apps

I guess I'm going to stick with my Pixel 4a. After many hours getting ready, many dollars on accessories, I'm returning the iPhone 13 mini.

Next phone, it appears that I will have to switch to Samsung to get a reasonably sized phone.

I have been recommending iPhones to people who ask about iPhone vs Android. No more. Not much difference if you just use the basics. But with some effort, you can get much better results with Android.

Now more hours trying to find a Google Maps alternative so that when it gets in a "stay on this road" loop I can find peace.